If you are planning to travel to or through Tohoku, you are probably planning to use the Tōhoku Shinkansen. In this article, we describe a more interesting route via the Japan Sea Coast. It takes longer but is a great way to see and experience Tohoku!
The Tōhoku Shinkansen will take you at speeds of up to 320km/h from Tokyo to Hakodate, but there is a much more scenic and interesting route.
We would therefore like to suggest an alternative more interesting route, at least for one way! As well as being able to see lots of scenery, you have the chance to travel on two special tourist trains.
On the map, the blue line is the Tōhoku Shinkansen. The red line is the Gono Line~(part of) Ou Main Line~Uetsu Line route from Aomori to Niigata via Akita. From Niigata you can use the Joetsu Shinkansen to get to Tokyo.
Although if you still want to explore Japan train and see more scenery, you can take travel on the Shinetsu Main line, Joetsu Line and Takasaki Line back to Tokyo!
(we are describing the route from North to South, but it can just as easily be done in the other direction)
May be one of the most scenic routes in Japan – The Gono Line…
Before we start our journey, we must point out that Aomori City is well worth a look around. It used to be the main port on Honshu to get to and from Hokkaido, including train ferries that plied the Tsugaru Straits that separate Honshu and Hokkaido.
In fact one of the old train ferries is now a museum, which is well worth visiting. Aomori Pref. is a major apple growing area so you will see a lot associated with apples!
Another city you will pass through before starting on the Gono Line proper is the Castle City of Hirosaki.
Make the journey part of the experience. Travel on the Resort Shirakami Train…
The best and practically the only way to explore the Shirakami Sanchi area by public transport is to take the special tourist train Resort Shirakami which operates between Aomori~Hirosaki~Akita via the Gono Line.
The first “Joyful Train”
This train was one of the first “Joyful Train” introduced by a JR company and was designed for sightseeing. All three of the trains dedicated for this service have large windows, allowing great views of the Japan Sea coastline. You may also see an onboard performance by local artists!
Relax and watch the scenery as you travel…
You will get views of the apple orchards and Mt Iwaki as the train passes through the Tsugaru area. Mt Iwaki is often called the “Tsugaru Fuji” as it resembles Mt Fuji.
The Shirakami Sanchi is a UNESCO World Heritage site covering 1,300 square kilometers straddling Aomori and Akita Prefectures. It is mountainous and home to the last primeval Beech forests and many fauna and animals.
Resort Shirakami is the best way to see Shirakami-Sanchi…
There are several interesting features of this train. The first is that it slows down and has extended stops so that passengers can either get off or from inside the train take pictures. For example some times of the year and on certain journeys there is an extended stop (about 20 minutes) for passenger to go and see the rock formations on the beach at Senjojiki. Also for part of the route local cultural performance are done on the train.
Resort Shirakami information (JR East)
Akita is a good point to spend the night after the long journey on the Gono Line. Alternatively, you could take a break (for a few hours or overnight) at somewhere like Wespa Tsubakiyama which is a resort in the Shirakami Sanchi area. To see the the Aoike (blue pond), one of the larger lakes and go a little way into the Shirakami Sanchi, you need to get off the train and catch a bus (10~15min bus ride) at Juniko.
Shonai – Food, Sea and Sacred Mountains…Uetsu Main Line
From Akita, we suggest taking the Uetsu Main Line from Akita to Niigata (an alternative is to take the Akita Shinkansen back to Tokyo).
The Uetsu Main Line follows the coast line for much of its route in Akita and Yamagata Prefectures. As well as Akita, it serves the cities of Sakata and Tsuruoka in the Shonai area of Yamagata Prefecture
and Murakami and Niigata in Niigata Prefecture.
Try the Tourist Train Kairi or Limited Express Inaho…
There are local trains on the Uetsu Main Line, but as far as possible you should try and travel on the Limited Express Inaho, and on most Friday’s, weekends and holidays there is the tourist train “Kairi” which operates between Niigata and Sakata.
A feature well worth experiencing with the tourist train Kairi are the premium obento (boxed meals). These feature local ingredients and are prepared by local chefs. They must however be ordered in advance!
Tourist Train Kairi Information (JR East)
A stop off in the Shonai area is a must. The two major cities are Sakata and Tsuruoka.
Tsuruoka & Gastonomy…
Tsuruoka is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, so if you can stay overnight and have dinner there it is well worth it. Actually the whole of Shonai is good for food.
Tsuruoka is also the gateway to the very sacred Dewa Sanzan mountains (3 sacred mountains). The easiest one to get to and to hike up is Mt Haguro, which can be reached by bus from Tsuruoka. The mountain is famous for its Pagoda and 2,446 steps to reach the top, and on the way you will pass many small shrines housing different deities.
Sakata-Rice, Geisha and more…
Sakata is a port city at the mouth of the River Mogami, one of the important Japan rivers. The Shonai area being great rice growing area, Sakata was a major port for transporting this rice around the country (Japan being a nation of islands relies a lot on inshore shipping for transportation).
One of the main tourist attractions in Sakata is the Sankyo-Sogo Rice Warehouses, which are still in use today and house a rice museum and restaurant.
Sakata is also a place where you can still see Maiko (Geisha), and book to see live performances.
Continuing down the Uetsu Main Line will take you to Murakami in northern Niigata Prefecture and to Niigata City.
From Niigata you can get the Joetsu Shinkansen to Tokyo, or if you want to explore Japan by Japan further, you could take the Shinetsu Main Line, Joetsu Line and Takasaki Line to Tokyo.
JR Rail Passes
All the railway lines and trains mentioned in this article can be used with a JR Rail Pass (All Japan and relevant regional passes).
TS Japan Rail can advise on which are the best tickets and passes for your travel plans!
This is just of many ideas that TS Japan Rail has for exploring Tohoku by train. We can help you to plan your trip to Tohoku!
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